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Oxfam deluxe

oxfa0508.jpgUK charity shop, OxFam, is in the middle of a fundamental makeover. A collaboration with the London College of Fashion and the talent behind the relaunch of Top Shop is setting out to proof that luxury retail strategy is not limited to high-price merchandise.

The charity was taking its first steps towards a more fashion-conscious image: away from the slightly battered shoes and oversize floral skirts it’s known for and into the world of designer one-offs and couture accessories.

To celebrate the launch, seven British designers have made one-off pieces using clothes from the charity shop which will be auctioned on eBay from today. Giles Deacon’s offering is a bright orange and green 1950s-style dress made from a pair of curtains from an Oxfam in Dalston. Stephen Jones constructed a hat made from pillowcases printed with a map of London. — (Via The Guardian, UK)

The initiative involves designers tailoring the existing pieces in the new boutique stores, and selling them both in-store and on eBay. It is already being heralded as the antidote to ‘fast fashion’.

Inside the bespoke revolution

besp0508.jpgAnyone who saw the excellent BBC series Savile Row will remember that the world of English bespoke tailoring is a marvellous clash of ego, confusion, exquisite quality, narrow-mindedness, English blustering, confidence and fear of the future…

For example… Meet Colonel Blasher

A particularly memorable scene is the ‘war cabinet’ meeting of bespoke tailors to discuss the news that Abercrombie & Fitch, which manages to qualify as a tailoring company, has the right to operate in the restricted Savile Row zone. It’s end-of-an-era stuff… But also one with opportunities.

We have been working with clients in the London bespoke industry for some time, to help retain the best of the heritage while repositioning the category for the future, updating business models, rethinking communications etc.

While Savile Row is an iconic centre for bespoke tailoring, the trend is growing globally.

Tom Ford, Thom Browne, and others are evolving the tradition of bespoke, and Paul Smith recently exported a bespoke initiative in New York…

Select fans of Paul Smith’s particular brand of Carnaby Street–via–Savile Row English flash have been stopping in to the second-floor showroom at the designer’s Greene Street boutique for a limited series of fittings with his crack “bespoke team.” — (Via NY Mag)

Meanwhile, the world of bespoke has rather shockingly collided with the world of blogging, in the form of English Cut, from Thomas Mahon, bespoke Savile Row tailor (but actually operating in the North of England).

Unlike many bespoke tailors who take the names of their clients to the grave, Thomas is cut from a newer cloth, his “Shameless Namedropping” section breezily mentions that he has dressed Prince Charles and Bryan Ferry.

And the “Why buy a suit from me” section sets out his stall with an eagerness that borders on the ungentlemanly…

1. Mobility and Economics.
2. Credentials.
3. Temperament.
4. My Age.

Read the EnglishCut blog

Thomas is part of the new revolution. As women’s couture stumbles, men’s bespoke is going from strength to strength…

Lagerfeld’s mysterious Chanel garbage

chan05081.jpgHours after Karl Lagerfeld was seen pointing at refuse sacks in New York this week, a Chanel logo was found on nearby garbage bins…

Maybe Karl was just envisioning a better-looking container for our city’s waste and couldn’t resist making his vision a reality on those bins. — (Via NY Mag)

Either this is Karl Lagerfeld borrowing an idea from Louis Vuitton

Or he’s just trying to get a handle on grunge culture following the signing of Kurt Cobain’s daughter to the Chanel cause.

Hermes launches arts initiative

herm0508.jpg Yesterday we wrote about the new plan among luxury jewelry brands to leverage heritage to build a stronger marketing plan to the future.

In a similar vein, Hermes has announced an initiative that investigates not just its own past, but the past of the artisanal skills that underpin the power of the brand.

The initative, the Fondation d’entreprise Hermès, is a foundation aimed at the preservation of artisanal skills and of ancient artifacts

Working to promote and preserve craft skills, the foundation will be headquartered in Paris and have an initial five-year mission in which it will play a key role in supporting the performing arts, visual arts and design sectors — (Via Vogue)

The Fendi chainsaw

fend0508.jpgThe relationship between luxury brands and pop culture is becoming increasingly powerful. Part of this growing revolution is an artistic movement that commodified the logos of luxury brands to make provocative statements.

First there was Tom Sach’s Chanel Guillotine — (Via TomSachs.org)

Then the Gucci gas masks offering “high fashion protection” — (Via Designergasmasks.com)

And now at the 1998 gallery in Los Angeles a new exhibition called The Revolution will be Fabulous, a “weapons of mass designer show”.

Click to view more artwork

Other items include a Louis Vuitton rifle, Paul Smith artillery and a Chanel rocket launcher. Prices start at $500… Find out more by emailing the gallery directly

Luxury jewelers turn up the heritage

chau0508.jpgAs competition in the luxury jewelry category becomes ever more intense, brands are looking into their heritage to create distinct brand positionings that will play globally.

At the center of this spirit of reinvention, the Place Vendome in Paris, the inspiration for the shape of Chanel No. 5’s bottle lid, and now the place where old narratives of jewelry brands are being respun…

“Heritage” has become the buzzword, as the traditional jewelers take on a changing competitive landscape in which branded fashion houses like Dior, Gucci or Versace are producing fine jewelry while they themselves are expanding around the globe. — (Via International Herald Tribune)

Karl and the Time 100 most influential

karl0508.jpgTime magazine has just published its list of the 100 most influential people in the world. There are three luxury-related players this year; Karl Lagerfeld, Takashi Murakami and Carine Roitfeld of French Vogue.

The profile of Lagerfeld is written by architect, Zaha Hadid, designer of the Chanel Mobile Pavilion. Hadid rather deftly describes his importance…

The initial context of his work demanded a kind of radicalism. Before Karl, we all looked to couture for inspiration and direction. Now, through his work, fashion originates from the street, the media—anywhere. — (Via Time)

Takashi Murakami is profiled by Marc Jacobs as the man that made it possible for the LV logo to sprout hands…

I thought, I would love it if the mind that imagined this dizzying world of jellyfish eyes, singing moss, magic mushrooms and morphing creatures would be willing to have a go at the iconic Louis Vuitton monogram. — (Via Time)

And Carine Roitfeld (editor-in-chief, French Vogue) profiled by Hedi Slimane…

Her definition of fashion is clearly hedonistic, embracing fashion’s immediacy but with a broad cultural vision that puts everything in perspective.” — (Via Time)

Dolce & GaGoogle

goog0508.jpgGoogle has just launched an interesting initiative where they have commissioned artists to design igoogle search pages.

These new designs are provided by artists including fashion designer Oscar de la Renta, Nigo of The Bathing Ape, Dolce & Gabbana, and more.

Now you can put the work of world-class artists and innovators on your personalized Google homepage. Then add your choice of news, email, games, and more for a page that’s as useful as it is beautiful. — (Via Google)

Luxury consumers are ready for marketing 2.0

blog0508.jpgLuxury brands have struggled to create an online presence that reproduces their carefully controlled offline positioning, but according to new research, consumers are ready for - and expect - luxury brands to innovate and develop clear online experiences.

The inherent contradiction between the ubiquitous accessibility of brands in the online world and the fiercely protected exclusivity at the heart of luxury consumer goods has to date remained an unresolved mismatch. — (Via BrandStrategy)

You can view historically how luxury websites have approached their web design via the Internet Archive Way Back Machine

Louis Vuitton, for example, has come a long way since its first web design in 1998… Visit LV 1998 website

Korean Air

kore05081.jpg Over the last few months, the previously low-key Korean Air appears to have found an almost limitless media budget, for TV, print and online advertising. With their new Tiffany blue color scheme and “Excellence in Space” positioning, they have raised their profile enormously.

However, we have to wonder whether their new print ad is going to attract any new customers…

It mentions their “180 degree reclining Kosmo Sleeper Seat” but the image features a a seat that looks like an unreclinable plastic shallow bucket seat, and while the model appears to be in the throes of relaxation, the reality of having a plastic spike resting against the back of your neck suggests the opposite.

The ad might be communicating on the other tagline “From departure to arrival, witness the creation of your own private room”, in which case this is a metaphorical seat.

Either way, it’s not a very helpful ad.