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LVMH buys Swiss watchmaker Hublot

Accessories

hubl0408.jpgThis morning, LVMH followed through on its recent statement that it was on the acquisition trail and announced that it had bought Hublot, an upmarket Swiss watchmaker with 2007 sales of nearly $150M, and a particularly strong presence in China and India.

The acquisition of Hublot brings it into LVMH’s existing watch portfolio of TAG Heuer, Dior Montres, and Louis Vuitton watches.

Hublot was founded by Carlo Crocco in 1980. The Geneva-headquartered company has a selective distribution network limited to 300 stores worldwide and LVMH said Hublot was expected to have “very significant increase in revenue” in 2008. — (Via Reuters)

The deal also suggests that watches are replacing bags as the most competitive area in the global luxury marketplace. We can expect more watchmaker acquisitions in the months to come.

Cracking the Hermès code

Accessories

herm04081.jpgMichael Tonello, author of Bringing Home the Birkin, claims to have hacked the exclusivity code that encourages potential owners to wait two years to acquire the iconic Hermès bag…

“The bag has become the iconic ‘it’ bag, the symbol of ultimate luxury, because of its inaccessibility to the general public. People really want what they can’t have. But I’d travel to different countries, walk into Hermes, use my formula, and get a bag, and return home with six or seven Birkins several times a month. It’s odd to say there is a list when I could walk in and out of nine out 10 stores with a bag.” — (Via Reuters)

160 years of Cartier

Accessories

cart0408.jpgWith determination, and unusually gritty vocabulary, Cartier announces its plan to extend its “muscle and structure” into the Middle East.

“Our big challenge today is to continue to develop our visibility and to maintain our excellent standards of customer service. Cartier wishes to be as close to its customers as possible. This implies we need to open more and bigger boutiques. After these outlets are established, we need trained staff. We therefore need to invest in new retail stores as well as on getting the best available and best-trained personnel for our stores.” — (Via Emirates Business)

Luxury watches: Banknote technology and the timeless timepiece

Accessories

vach0408.jpgMore evidence today from the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie that the watch category has become a focus for innovative thinking in the luxury industry.

Firstly, comes the announcement from luxury watch brand Vacheron Constantin that it has employed skills of a passport printer and a Swiss banknote designer to develop new security features in its fight against counterfeiting.

Laser engraving without inking, for example, is used for the words ‘Swiss Made’ and ‘Automatique’ on the dials. Laser engraving with inking, on the other hand, is used for some of the numerals, the date and day of the week and ‘Vacheron Constantin Geneve’. Meanwhile, the surface of the dial is also covered with fine white gold in the so-called metallisation process. — (Via Agence France Presse)

Then, a story that perhaps captures the imagination more, and speaks strongly to the evolving definitions of luxury. The watch so luxurious that it doesn’t even tell the time…

Swiss watchmaker Romain Jerome’s “Day&Night” watch — which does not tell the time, only whether it is night or day — sold out within 48 hours of its launch earlier this year as watch fanatics snapped up the $300,000 timepiece. — (Via Reuters)

The watch was developed, according to the watchmaker, based on twin insights that 80 per cent of people feel that time is the ultimate luxury; and 67 per cent of people don’t use their watch to tell the time…

Chester French’s Jimmy Choos

Pop culture

ches0408.jpgBetween 2003 and 2005 we ran The American Brandstand project. It was a research initiative to track the shout-outs that songs in the top 20 Billboard songs gave to brands.

Downloads of each of the reports are still available; 2003, 2004, 2005

The branded songs in the Billboard chart were dominated by hip-hop. These were the ‘bling’ years of hip-hop, where no self-respecting rap star would get through a song without mentioning Mercedes, Hennessy, or Cristal. Some more creative singers were also able to get mentions of less likely brands, such as Holiday Inn, Geico Insurance. McDonalds, and Polaroid.

Lil’ Kim famously managed to mention 14 brands in the 2003 song The Jump Off.

However, since 2005, the amount of brands has fallen sharply in the Billboard chart.

So it was refreshing to hear Chester French’s new song represents the most triumphant brand mention for years… The Jimmy Choos

“She’s got her Jimmy Choo-woooo-woooo-wooos
She’s NEEDS her Jimmy Choo-woooo-woooo-wooos”

Marvellous. We’re not sure whether it will make it to the Billboard chart, but it certainly deserves to… Here more at Chester French’s MySpace page.

Watch brands show their mettle

Accessories

time0408.jpgLuxury watch brands are being positioned as the rising stars in an accessories market as fears persist that the handbag market is failing to deliver the performance of recent years.

A steady rise in prices for luxury handbags has brought many fashion labels over the €1,000, or $1,500, mark. In fact, €1,000 bags are starting to be banal; the benchmark for top-end bags is closing in on €5,000. — (Via International Herald Tribune)

Another sign of their growing power is the fact that watch brands are extending their brands into the jewellery and mobile phone category, to take on contenders such as Vertu.

Luxury watch brand Tag Heuer will begin selling mobile phones carrying its label from the second half of the year, and other luxury fashion brands such as Prada and Giorgio Armani — which also sell watches — have all already hopped on the mobile phone bandwagon. Beyond mobile phones, watch brands are also quietly making inroads in the accessories business, further blurring the lines between traditional timepiece and fashion brands. — (Via Agence France Presse)

All this and more will be discussed heatedly during the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva this week…

Samsonite takes on the world

Accessories

sams0308.jpgThe repositioning of Samsonite - from a dependable suitcase vendor - to multibrand luxury powerhouse has been astonishingly fast. President and CEO Marcello Bottoli has created a new positioning based on adapting strategies from Procter & Gamble, and Louis Vuitton, and by attracting a showcase of talent such as Alexander McQueen, and Viktor & Rolf.

The brand has gone from near bankruptcy to sales worth $1B in just 7 years. With the tagline “life’s a journey” it clearly has Louis Vuitton in its immediate sights, but there is an energy at the brand, and a sense of ambition, that suggests that it’s happy to go head-to-head with almost anyone…

As well as building on a hugely successful expansion into footwear and a move into the women’s handbag market – “which once would have been considered outrageous,” laughs Bottoli – the current transformation will involve a big push into eyewear, men’s and women’s fashion accessories, timepieces, mobile phones, stationery and various hush-hush projects. — (Via CNBC)

A spring rally for Tiffany

Accessories

tiff0308.jpgStrong brand recognition, international sales, and - possibly new accounting techniques - are offered by BusinessWeek as some of the reasons behind a 10% spike for Tiffany & Co., and a raised outlook for 2008.

However, some analysts are questioning whether the brands rally will continue…

After the surprising results and rosy outlook, some analysts remain skeptical about Tiffany’s earnings outlook for the year, citing the bleak economic environment and rising commodity prices globally. — (Via BusinessWeek)

In addition, earnings at Tiffany & Co. were boosted - briefly - last week by the Barack Obama campaign which accidentally charged a personal Obama purchase to a campaign credit card…

When asked about the curious expenditure, campaign spokeswoman Jen Psaki said, “That was mistakenly charged to a campaign credit card and the money has been refunded to the campaign. — (Via Huffington Post)

On business strategy and luxury watches

Accessories

wint0208.jpg

Today Swiss analysts and watchmakers offered confident projections for on-going success in 2008…

Watchmakers are set for further growth in 2008 as strong demand in Asia and the Middle East offsets economic gloom in the US and Europe… Swiss watch exports as a whole grew 16.2 percent to 15.96 billion Swiss francs, with particularly strong demand from Hong Kong.

Bank Vontobel analysts expect watch sales to grow 10 percent in 2008, with the Olympic Games in Beijing giving a particular spur as Omega is one of the official sponsors.

– (Via Agence France Presse)

At a time when the luxury watch business is booming, one of the most interesting strategies has found future promise in practices from the past.

A watchmaker Max Büsser, profiles in early January in the IHT, has rewritten the business model, returning to the origins of the luxury watch business as executed by Breguet 200 years ago; pre-selling and asking for down-payments from retailers to complete the work.

And perhaps equally importantly he has redeployed a strategy that he used while at Harry Winston for celebrating the brand and the designer.

As head of Harry Winston Rare Timepieces… Büsser gave credit where it was due, by putting both the name of the brand and that of the watchmaker alongside the dial and movement. This was something of a breakthrough in the watch world, where companies prefer to highlight the brand name and downplay the designers behind their products.

To Büsser, bringing the design talent out of the backroom and into the spotlight is simply good business. “All these people are usually unsung heroes working for other brands,” he said recently while in Singapore for the introduction of HM2. “For them and for me it’s a win-win situation, because it’s the first time that their names appear somewhere, so they’re going to give it their best.”

It seems like a good strategy all around, including a nice move against counterfeting.

– (Via IHT)

Meanwhile, also from the watch category, it’s worth remembering that a best-in-class marketing initiative across the entire luxury industry can be found in the Rolex Mentor And Protégé Arts Initiative. In a marketing environment where sponsoring new talent sometimes feels opportunistic and short-term, Rolex has demonstrated over 6 years an absolute commitment to its role as a talent incubator.

Louboutin TM’s signature red lacquer

Accessories

loub0108.jpg The French shoe designer, Christian Louboutin, has finally won the US trademark on the red laquered soles that characterize his designs.

The signature manicure effect was added to the shoes after Louboutin was inspired by watching an employee applying red nail polish.

Download the trademark ruling PDF

Visit the Louboutin website