The New York Times perfume critic Chandler Burr has just released a insider look at the perfume industry. The book juxtaposes the development strategy of a Sarah Jessica-Parker perfume with that of master perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena at Hermes.
The differences show the unfolding narrative of luxury strategy; should a brand rely on heritage, should a brand rely on celebrity? Which are the brand stories that consumers want to hear…
Burr contrasts Parker’s perfume creation in New York with the development of a new scent for the Parisian luxury brand Hermes. Master perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena is hired to create Un Jardin sur le Nil, a garden on the banks of the Nile to challenge the dominance of the Chanel perfumes…. The “Sex and the City” actress and the French perfumer, Burr finds, are kindred spirits trying to create fleeting, liquid art. Both know the secret to a great perfume is a great story. Parker and Ellena use emotions, landscapes and characters as the ingredients in their perfumes, not just chemical synthetics.
– (Associated Press)
Meanwhile, outside the world of Sarah Jessica-Parker and Hermes a gathering fascination for perfume is innovating the industry in other new disruptive ways…
Mandy Aftel’s alchemic return to natural ingredients (Via Aftelier.com)
Blaise Mouton, the perfumer of environments including the Hyatt Hotel (Via BlaiseMautin.com)
Kilian Hennessy, scion of the cognac family finds inspiration in liquor (Via ByKilian.com)
Iconic cosmetics designer Shu Uemura died today in Tokyo. He was a pioneer in innovative products, boutiques, and was one of the first recent Japanese cosmeticians to reach out to the West. One of his main inspirations was the simplicity of nature (deep sea water was a key ingredient of many products), is an inspiration which is more relevant than ever for luxury brands.
