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The Fendi chainsaw

Gen. Luxury

fend0508.jpgThe relationship between luxury brands and pop culture is becoming increasingly powerful. Part of this growing revolution is an artistic movement that commodified the logos of luxury brands to make provocative statements.

First there was Tom Sach’s Chanel Guillotine — (Via TomSachs.org)

Then the Gucci gas masks offering “high fashion protection” — (Via Designergasmasks.com)

And now at the 1998 gallery in Los Angeles a new exhibition called The Revolution will be Fabulous, a “weapons of mass designer show”.

Click to view more artwork

Other items include a Louis Vuitton rifle, Paul Smith artillery and a Chanel rocket launcher. Prices start at $500… Find out more by emailing the gallery directly

Conspicuous consumption in the art world

Culture

chri0508.jpg The market for art at auction has shown a year-on-year steady rise; from $4 billion in 2004 to $9 billion in 2007.

So luxury analysts are closely watching the art market for signs that it is beginning to soften around economic worries.

What is beginning to emerge is a sense that a slight stumble in confidence is not the same as the feared collapse with which the art press often appears obsessed…

After three years of speculation about a bust, will this be the moment when the art market finally crumbles?” — (Via Slate.com)

Arppies are the new Yuppies

Culture

cash0408.jpgFor those who thought that UK yuppie culture was dead comes news that they are not dead, they just went away to work on worse acronym.

They have lately re-emerged …

No longer Yuppies, they are now “Arppies” - that’s short for asset rich, penny poor. They just traded in their Porsches for property, their freedom for families and their spendthrift habits for school fees… Where once they were young and upwardly mobile, now they’re middle aged and standing still. — (Via Daily Mail)

The acronym may be annoying, but the idea is interesting… conspicuous consumption is moving into asset preservation, and 2008 might be their year of reckoning. It’s a shift in behaviour which appears not to have been lost on the banking industry which seems to be fast reinventing its consumer relationship skills.

The new old boys clubs

Culture

ment0408.jpgPage Six magazine reports that a new generation of young hipsters are moving in on the worn armchairs of the gentlemen’s club in the USA…

An increasing number of under-35ers are eschewing the clamor of DJs and draft beer for the more refined atmosphere of white wine and rosé… and the clubs are adaptig to meet the new gernationJoshue David Stein, take over the leather armchairs — (JoshuaDavidStein.com)

$1B worth of art up for auction

Culture

mari0408.jpgIn what experts described as the largest private sale of art ever, the heirs of the legendary dealer Ileana Sonnabend have parted with some $600 million worth of paintings and sculptures in two transactions to cover their estate taxes. The sale has been fought over by Christie’s and Sotheby’s both trying to get a piece of the commission.

The sale comes at a time when prices at art auctions have been accelerating despite the economic downturn.

Sonnabend’s art trove, which includes seminal works by artists like Andy Warhol, Jasper Johns, Robert Rauschenberg and Cy Twombly, is valued at more than $1 billion. Taxes on the estate amount to more than half the value of the assets, experts said. — (Via International Herald Tribune)

The luxury bookshelf is the new luxury book

Culture

book0308.jpgToday is UNESCO World Book Day, so it felt like a timely moment to mention that - to some people - the arrangement of a book collection is increasingly as important as the contents of a book collection …

Assouline offers a ready-packed set of bookshelves, and although purchasers can’t choose the individual books, they can choose the color of the shelving… The shelves carry the quotation, “Culture is not a luxury but a necessity” which may be true, but the instant library at a cost of $30,000 rather pushes the definition of necessity… — (Via Assouline)

If quantity is what you are after, then, Strand Books, offers a service where books can by purchase by the foot. Their aim is to “custom design a library that is sure to please the eye and satisfy the mind.” Clients include Steven Spielberg, Polo Ralph Lauren, and the newly re-opened Plaza Hotel. — (Via Strand Books)

Designarta Books in the offers a similar service, for the home, and happily, for the yacht. Their focus is on “luxury and elegance and a passion for superior quality… with the knowledge and experience to create a bespoke library that is both personal and unique.” (Via Designarta Books)

If a book collection becomes overwhelming, then London-based Levitate Architects have an ingenious solution to hide books in an incredibly beautiful way — (Via ApartmentTherapy)

Meanwhile if you would prefer to read a book, rather than admire it, or its shelving, then My Special Book believes that the book might as well be about you; get your own biography here… — (Via MySpecialBook)

The Dom Perignon socialist manifesto

Culture

domp0208.jpg On a day when President Sarkozy visits a Louis Vuitton factory, buys a bag for Carla Bruni, and creates more accusations of pre-revolutionary behavior (Via The Times, London), Counter Punch publishes a lengthy piece about the relationship between the politics of luxury and Sarkozy’s new French republic…

Last September Bernard Arnault, chairman and CEO of the luxury conglomerate company LVMH, held a little “do” to mark the 60th birthday of the couture house of Dior. He spared no expense, with Dom Perignon champagne, caviar, 75 waiters for 25 tables, 14 cooks, 4,000 roses and 8,000 sprigs of lily of the valley (the late Christian Dior’s signature flower). But then the 270 guests were rather special too… Also present was the prime minister, Francois Fillon, who only four days later said: “I am in charge of a bankrupt state. This has got to stop.”

There is nothing new about billionaires indulging in conspicuous consumption. But the social portent of such festivities now reaches beyond the pages of glossy magazines. — (Via CounterPunch)

Hip-hop and the business of luxury

Culture

kany0208.jpgOne of the most powerful truths about hip-hop is the way in which it constantly evolves and reinvents itself. Two years ago, hip-hop was characterized by a Cristal-wielding Gucci-name-dropping attitude.

It was a time when rappers signed merchandising deals with fashion brands, but with 50 Cent’s G-Unit line and Eminem’s Shady brand now out of business, rappers are consolidating their relationship with more aspirational products.

The fascination between hip-hop and luxury brands has not lessened, but the relationship between hip-hop’s most well-known rappers and luxury brands is clearly evolving.

Rappers are beginning to leverage their business acumen to have a stronger role at the heart of luxury brands, not just as consumers, but increasingly as consultants, and with a role to deliver a new generation of consumers to brands that are in various stages of familiarity with a less traditional consumer base.

Those that are most effective are, unsurprisingly, the most visible and those with the biggest cross-over appeal; Pharrell Williams, Kanye West, Jay-Z, and P Diddy.

The relationship between rappers and luxury has taken three main forms…

#1 The rapper as luxury spokesperson… P Diddy + Ciroc in $100M deal (Via EFluxMedia); Kanye West + Absolut (Via Reuters)

#2 The rapper as luxury creative director… Pharrell Williams + Louis Vuitton (Via AllHipHop)

#3 The rapper as luxury strategist… Jay-Z’s new advertising agency has already been rumored to have signed several luxury clients (Via MTV)

50 years of affluent backlash

Culture

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When Harvard economist John Kenneth Galbraith published The Affluent Society, he created global debate about the relationship between affluence and progress. The book sought to clearly outline the manner in which the post-World War II America was becoming wealthy in the private sector but remained poor in the public sector, lacking social and physical infrastructure, and perpetuating income disparities.

On the fiftieth anniversary of its publication, the ideas contained in the book still resonate…

It has become so much part of conventional wisdom that affluence is a problem that it is hard to imagine that attitudes were ever different. The media is full of stories about problems that allegedly owe much to our affluent lifestyles, including environmental degradation, social inequalities and even mental illness. Yet there was once a time when popular prosperity was seen as overwhelmingly positive. — (Via Spiked Online)

Three faces of emerging luxury markets

Culture

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As emerging markets become increasingly interested in luxury brands - and the luxury industry looks East to greet them - different attitudes are emerging based on the heritage of luxury in the country and the speed of socio-economic change.

In India, self-defined “brand freaks” evolve from Gandhi to Gucci (Via The Washington Post)

Russian experiences a “backlash against post-Soviet flashiness” (Via The Guardian, UK)

While in China it “is not really about aesthetics… it is just about displaying money.” (Via Agence France Presse)